Nothing can go wrong in Koh Rong. Except playing capture the flag with a bunch of Swedish people. Then at least half of you will end up injured. Or, at least that was my personal experience. Aside from schoolyard games gone awry, this beautiful island has unspoiled beaches and friendly people. Koh Rong is a slice of paradise and was one of my favourite parts of the journey so far.

Stay

4K Beach

Initially, we came to the island and were promised a longtail boat to a somewhat secluded beach called 4k beach. Our friends were opening a new resort called Cashew Nut, and were gracious enough to give us a few nights to test out the beach front bungalows.

Our ferry came in later than expected, so we started walking to the other side of the island to our new home for the weekend. The only problem is, at the time we had no idea where we were going or how to get there.

What was supposed to be a 35-minute midday walk ended up being closer to a 90-minute trek that included a lot of sun, not enough water, and a local giving us some misinformation. But, we made it to Cashew Nut and settled into our new digs before the sun went down.

Eat

There’s not much to eat on the 4K Beach side of the island. Aside from a resort, Pura Vita, and cup-of-noodles from the (then) sparsely equipped Cashew Nut food stall, you have to go into town to get anything.

Pura Vida did have an amazing chicken sandwich, and some of the best Caesar salad I’ve ever had, but their prices certainly reflected their hold on that remote beach. My wallet had a hard time going back more than twice.

In town, there are plenty of options for food. Dishes range from $3 curries to $12 BBQ platters. Breakfast is especially inexpensive at Elephant Cafe. Here you can purchase a muesli and yogurt for $1.50, and add fruit to round it out to an even $2.

Drink

Dragon Guesthouse

In town, check ou the craft brewers at Dragon guesthouse. A Quebec fellow has opened up a microbrewery that has an amazing witbier that you’re not able to find anywhere else in the area. A straight shot from the large ferry dock, grab a pint by turning left down the alley next to Bong’s bar.

Angkor Beer

Angkor was basically the only beer I drank while in Cambodia. Mostly because you can win free stuff by drinking them. The pull-top cans feature writing on the bottom of each tab, and the tabs that have little cans on them are redeemable for a free can! (But you’ll likely get a warm one.)

On the island, Angkor cost $1 per can, about double the mainland price. Totally understandable, however, since everything and everyone needs to be shipped in by ferry or slow boat.

Play

Beaches

The beaches on this island are incredible. I’m not the biggest beach-bum, but I couldn’t help but get excited every time I took a step towards the clear blue waters of Koh Rong. Crystal blue waters lap up to deserted beaches with white sand that is so fine that it squeaks underfoot.

Plankton at night

Grab a mask and go for a swim in the moonlight with some glowing marine friends. Swimming with the plankton at night is an experience I’ve never felt before, and one I can’t wait to have again. As you swim, your movement disturbs the microscopic creatures and they create a bioluminescent light as they move. A quick dip almost instantly turned into a game of trying to get the biggest reaction while thrashing in the water.

It reminded me of that scene in FernGully where Crysta and Zac Go for a night walk in the rainforest. But, obviously, underwater.

Snorkel or Dive

There are day and evening trips aplenty all over Koh Rong that will take you to some of the great marine areas to check out some aquatic wildlife. Usually about $40-$80 depending on the type of trip you take, most include lunch, equipment, and (obviously,) round trip transport from town. Most accommodations have ties to a local diving or tour company, so you won’t have to look far to find one.