Nestled on the Cambodian coast is a rare mix of everything I love about traveling: good people, good food, and cheap (basically) everything. Sihanoukville, or, “Sinville” as some people call it, is laden with backpackers and expats, but still has an abundance of Cambodian charm. A few days after arriving, I realized I wanted to stay. So the next seven-ish weeks were spent in this charming town.
Eat
“BBQ Street”
Take a left off of serendipity beach road and you’ll almost immediately realize why we nicknamed this area “BBQ Street”. Dozens of roadside restaurants set up nightly with grills and chill-chests with all kinds of meat for you to choose. Literally anywhere you go, you can get a $3 plate of BBQ chicken, served with potatoes, salad, and garlic bread. Top it off with a $0.50 draft beer, and you eat cheap daily.
Titanic
A tiny restaurant with only eight tables, Titanic served up some of the best meals I’ve had in recent memory. Located just off of what we dubbed “BBQ Street”, a five-minute walk from the Serendipity Beach road, this gem has a huge menu full of delicious eats for about $2 a plate.
The staff is friendly and are always willing to suggest their favourites, like the chicken in peppercorn sauce. To this day, I wish I ate more of this delicious dish. A simple mix of onions, chicken, peppers, and beans sauteed in a fresh Kampot Pepper and soy sauce, served over white rice.
Ernie’s Burgers
I thought it was hard to find a good, old fashioned hamburger in SE Asia… until I stumbled on Ernie’s. Owned by a Canadian expat, this burger shack is 100% worth every penny. The burgers are thick, juicy, and prepared to order. You’re able to choose from a long list of complementary sauces and toppings, (side of pickles, please,) and add bacon or cheese at a small upcharge. For about $6 a head, this place is a must visit for a good burger.
Stay
Rent an Apartment
If you’re like me and decided to stick around for longer than a week, it may be well worth a short trip outside of Serendipity Beach to find a room for rent. Averaging about $5 a day, less water and electricity. Living alongside locals and expats, you’re really immersed in Cambodian culture.
Note: This may or may not include weddings and other festivities that begin at 6am, roosters crowing incessantly, and stray dogs fighting below your window.
Dorm rooms @ the Big Easy
Short-term stays can easily stay for a budget price at The Big Easy. Located in the heart of Serendipity Beach Road, The Big Easy has become a landmark in Sihanoukville. The dorms and A/C rooms are located towards the back of the large restaurant, which also serves a delicious slice of Canadian cuisine. (Hint: The $3 Poutine ain’t half bad!) For $5 a night, you can enjoy one of the dorm rooms with a bed with a privacy curtain.
Higher end comfort at The Reef
Next door to The Big Easy is a resort called The Reef. The Reef truly has it all. Lovely staff, a great pool, spacious rooms, and a new menu that launched early February. For $50+ a night, the rooms are generously sized with A/C, TV’s, and speedy WiFi throughout. If you get the chance, try the scrambled egg roti in the morning. You won’t be disappointed.
Play
Otres Beach
One of the nicest beaches on this part of the coast, Otres holds a special place in my heart. Clear, warm waters and beaches lined with restaurants and bars serving $0.50 draft beers makes for a memorable day every time. A lot of afternoons were spent beachside here playing cards and getting tanned. On Saturday nights, the Otres Market draws people from all over the area for an evening of live music, beer, food vendors, local merchants, and good times.
Unfortunately, in March 2016, Otres was due to be torn down, along with other beach communities in Sihanoukville.
Explore and Shop
Renting a moto and exploring is one of the best ways to spend time in a new town. Sihanoukville offers markets aplenty, memorials, temples, and even a mini-golf course. In town, you can find a large market full of clothing, electronics, housewares, and fresh food vendors. If you’re up for a bit of a drive, head out towards the Cambodia brewery and check out the waterfalls at Kbal Chhay.
Drinking
One of the favourite pastimes of many visitors in Sihanoukville is drinking. With happy hour specials all over the place, and pub crawls held most evenings, it’s really easy to get a taste of the party scene pretty easily. My friends had nailed down what they called “The Sinville Pub Crawl”, which was geared towards getting you loaded early, and for very cheap.
The typical night started at The Reef for $0.50 draft from 5-7pm. From there, head across the street to Utopia, where you can get a draft for a quarter from 8-9pm. Take a left down BBQ Street to Bar From Home for 2-4-1 cocktails from 9-11pm. After you’re good and red-faced, hit the beach for free drinks. Around 11pm, you can walk down the boardwalk and get a free drink at four different bars. Start near Serendipity Beach Road at the Dolphin Shack and work your way to Star Palace, Sessions, then end the night at JJ’s with free shots at the door.
Driven by a passion for travel and all things marketing. Fuelled by tea and sarcasm, she’s a gypsy at heart with a knack for telling stories.